Listed below are a few building tips provided by Affordable Western Log Homes. Just a reminder, that under NO circumstances is Affordable Western Log Homes responsible for any faulty construction made of your log structure. These building tips are mere suggestions and all log structures should be built by a knowledgeable and professional contractor. Here are some building tips. Contractors, please feel free to email me at scottwest@hughes.net and give further input or suggestions. Thanks again.
When dealing with larger log diameters, your foundation should be at least at a very minimum of 8 inches thick and suggested 10 inches thick. Logs are a lot heavier than standard homes. For example, in an average 10” log weighs approximately 15 lbs. per foot.
Always remember the carpenters rule, “Measure twice and cut once!” We provide you with enough to build your home or cabin with very little to spare on mistakes. Especially on real long logs. Not only are they more expensive per foot, but to re-ship those logs would cost you greatly.
Keeping your walls as straight as possible when stacking. We suggest a long level. As your stacking your logs every row, keep measuring to ensure that the wall is as straight as possible.
When stacking, alter your butt joints when joining two logs together on the wall. This altering will strengthen the wall structure and not look so patterned. As well with the log butt joints, we suggest clear caulking and using square dowels on the two long ends and spike them into the under log. This procedure minimizes logs to separate and bow out or in.
“Think like water and think like a bug!” All logs will check or crack. This is a natural process that tells you our logs are from dead standing timber. However, cracks on the exterior logs tend to attract insects to hide in and water in from a storm will create a “pond” effect in a check that will hold water. Solution. We suggest looking at our link from Weather All at www.weatherall.com . They provide a whole host of materials to gently fill some of those cracks and match the color of your home. And if you prefer, you can also chink your home to give it that rustic pioneer look, plus add additional R-Value and draft sealant.
In the corner notch walls of your cabin or home, use a good clear flexible caulking with the foam gasket provided to give it even more of an air seal.
Ensure you use the foam gasket material provided with your package. We suggest a double strip layer. Although Swedish Cope is a tight fit, this helps an incredible amount in draft effectiveness.
When spiking your logs, always paddle drill to inset the spike with washers and pre-drill your hole. Remember as well, AWLH provides you will the whole wall. The doors and windows have to be cut in on site. So a good tip when spiking, to draw a little line with a pencil as to where your spikes are located. That way, when cutting in the windows and doors, you won’t hit them with your chainsaw. It’s also a good idea to preplan where your windows and doors are going and not spike in those areas but go around them.
Use good Low –E double pain windows. They are a bit more expensive, but you’ll be happy you did.
When cutting in your windows/Doors use a rough opening, but remember it still has to be framed in with common lumber as well. Many contractors love the recessed window or door look. This procedure we feel, looks better and provides the trim around the window with a flush, sharp look. They simply 45 degree cut the ends of the log opening and then frame in the window, then apply trim. (See photo gallery) The other method is by placing your trim over the logs. This works too, however leaves a gap on the back side of the trim.
When installing windows and doors, frame in the walls with 2x4 or 2x6’s, yet allow 1 to 3 inches at the top for settling. Then use standard insulation to fill that gap. Remember a skilled carpenter should perform this task. If a carpenter doesn’t think it’s required, then he or she does not know about settling. Insist that this procedure is to be performed. If not, doors and windows could crack or not open properly. And then it’s too late.
Walls are generally spiked and roof structures, post and headers are lag bolted. However if you prefer to us lags on everything you can.
Although AWLH provides notched walls and rafters, there will be some skilled cutting and occasional scribing. Every log home is custom. There are no two logs alike as well.
We suggest when using interior post supports, to use thick squares (at least 1”), that provides a good base for your support post to rest on. It also helps in the finish work when tile layers or carpet is being laid down that they can bump up to it with no problems.
If you are installing a loft, always use 2x6 Tongue and Groove over your log floor joists and we also suggest OSB board over that. This will prevent a waffling, bouncing floor and create a well stable, thick floor.
Always sand your log stairs very well. It wouldn’t be to fun to get slivers in your feet when your home is finished. As well, always lag the stairs and steps.
Check local codes on stairs, porch railing and then, if you prefer to use us on the railing, feel free to write or call us with how much you need. AWLH provides no initial railing with the order, but will provide you with railing at a later time when completion is close.
When joining an interior wall (sheetrock) with a log wall, a couple of options are available. One is to scribe the sheetrock around the logs. We don’t suggest this as all logs settle and with settling comes pressure on your sheet rock. Some do leave plenty of room for settling and then caulk around the scribe lines. However, we suggest that after your 2x4’s or 2x6’s walls are erected and your ready for sheet rock that you use a chainsaw and gently cut a groove into the log wall deep enough for the sheetrock to slide in. This provides a sharper look and assists with log settling.
When building your interior walls, always leave about a 2 to 3 inch gap space and then use washers with spikes. This will all be hidden when the sheetrock is installed but allows for settling.
Don’t compromise on R-Value. If you chose a cabin or home with a cathedral ceiling, always use the best insulation there is and as much as you can afford. All homes with cathedral ceilings loose heat, so minimize by insulating heavily. As well, install ceiling fans with a remote to help bring the circulate heat and make your home cooler in the summer months.
Your log walls during the building phase gets pretty dirty, so when it’s time to stain we suggest a log power wash and cleaning. A good hardware store like Lowe’s or a paint store could lead you in the right direction as well. Allow plenty of time to dry and then stain with your choice of color. We also suggest in using an oil based stain versus water based. This will bring more color out, repels water better and doesn’t flake or chip off the logs.
Log homes do require more exterior maintenance, but like with anything, maintaining your investment, will keep the value up. Exterior stain usually is applied first and then following two years reapplied and then every five years thereafter.
Don’t forget to wire smoke alarms, have plenty of fire extinguishers and have a planned family escape route. This may sound extreme, but it pays to be safe. And believe it or not, a log cabin or home will smolder for quite a long time before it is in full flame. Think of it like making a campfire. You use twigs and kindling standing vertical with some paper to light. Not a big log lying horizontal to start. However, when the kindling is burning well, then you add the bigger wood. Same goes for house fires. We believe log homes take more time to catch on fire but when they are in full flame, they burn longer. And time is crucial in evacuations. Most log structures yet useless, are still standing when the log home is extinguished. So please, be safe for you and your family. It’s about $100 if that, is all costs. My grandfather was a Chief of Missoula County Fire Department in Montana and the one thing he said that I remember so well is, “Fire is a living, breathing thing. If you respect fire, it can be your best friend however, if you disrespect it, it becomes your worst nightmare.
When building a fireplace, ensure it is built to local codes. Every log home looks great with one. And most do have one for the accent, looks etc. However in today’s day and age not all have to be wood burning. Many are gas fireplace inserts that look like a wood fireplace. Many have artificial or fake rock that is relatively inexpensive and looks and feels very real. Plus, it’s lighter weight. This means less foundation support. Heavy fireplaces require a lot of support.
Using a metal roof many times provides cheaper house insurance with several companies. Why? Fires. In a wild fire, embers burn in the sky and land anywhere. If you have a cedar shingle roof, although very attractive and rustic, it’s a perfect environment for a roof fire. Tile roof is also good, yet more expensive. They both also aid with snow removal as well. It slides off real easy, keeping snow load to a minimal.
When installing cabinetry, always remember to groove and slot your cabinets inside when mounting. This method is simple. By using a Dremel tool or saw cut little vertical grooves into the spot you wish to mount interior of the cabinet. Then use a washer with your mounting screws to install the cabinet. This helps in the settling process. Interior walls however, can be mounted like a standard home.
After the home is dried in and 90% is complete, just before you lay carpet and move in, we suggest a bug bomb. Over the months of building, flies and other insects could have planted eggs in your logs. And one easy way to find out and eliminate a further head ache after you moved in is by planting a bug bomb or calling the bug exterminator and give a full cleaning. Once this done, your home shouldn’t have the major problem of bugs. Remember all homes have flies.
Swedish Cope Log Homes can be hand peeled as well. Our mill does offer that, but for a higher price. Hand-peeling was a necessity to remove bark from the tree in the pioneer days. Using a razor sharp drawknife, pioneers would peel the bark and membrane off. This left a smooth, rustic non-machined look. This procedure can be mimicked by peeling the sides of the Cope logs, but leaving the tops unpeeled to ensure a tight fit. If you are interested in this, feel free to contact us. Or if you would like to save money and feel you are up to peeling it on site your self, we can provide you with a drawknife and show you how. A warning however, this is a physically demanding task. A typical home can last a long time to complete when peeling, so good luck!
We hope some of these building tips have helped you. Remember, quality builders perform quality results. And although you received an excellent product from us at an excellent price, in the case of building, cheaper is not always better. Our independent contractors listed on the Independent Contractor page, are skilled professionals that are highly experienced and will provide you the results your desire.
Thanks again and may God bless you and family in your cozy Affordable Western Log Home.
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